Calm at Hell's Gates

28-30 January

GPS: S:42.13.368. E:145.13.672

Approaching Strahan from Queenstown and ready for coffee, we gave this a wide berth when we were confronted by unwelcoming parking meters. We continued on the gravel road, and were surprised to find that the large Macquarie Heads campsite area was half empty. However it was reported that Christmas - New Year is very crowded and noisy.

A $6.00 per site overnight fee for unpowered sites is a small fee to pay for the large caretaking responsibilities, waste disposal skip bin, water, dump site and pit toilets (loo paper supplied)!

This campsite is sheltered, and close to the beach - fishing, beachcombing and long refreshing walks to the Heads and then the very long Ocean Beach are on offer. A perfect place for leisurely unwinding today, a completely different perspective to that of the convicts forced here in the 19th century.For history see:
http://www.smh.com.au/news/Tasmania/Strahan/2005/02/17/1108500205978.html.

What is your experience of free / minimal fee camping on this wild west coast?

In the shadow of Mt Roland

21-23 January

O'Neill's Creek Cradle Mt Road between Sheffield and Moina GPS S:41 28.007 E:146 13.191

Heavy rain and flooding over this camp site earlier in the month curtailed our camping. However on this weekend, although the creek was flowing fast, it was warm and sunny.

This is a free camping site, with several trees and electricity poles running through the middle. There are signs warning of the risk of branches falling. Luckily, we were spared falling branch damage, but had to beware of gumnuts, twigs and small red spiders.

There is a shelter shed with a mural and signage that tells the story of Gustav and Kate Weindorfer, who honeymooned in the Roland area, and saw Cradle Mountain and the potential for a National Park for the first time from the peak.

The walk to the peak of Roland from the carpark near O'Neill's Creek is estimated to take 4-6 hours, and is a moderate to difficult walk. The two other walks to Mt van Dyke and Mt Claude are shorter, and also quite demanding.

For those seeking something softer, there is a delightful rainforest walk next to the campground, with numbered signposts and a matching explanatory brochure organised by Outlook Mt. Roland, 'a volunteer group promoting sustainable recreation in the Mt Roland Regional Reserve.' In their brochure on the Roland walks, it is noted that 'free-range camping is permitted' on Mt Roland.

What is your experience of free camping in the north-west of Tasmania?

The Western Edge

28 December
Marrawah Green Point GPS: S40.54.596; E 144.40.786

Arrive at 3.00pm; this free camp site is a small grassy slope, edged with a fence with long grasses - somewhere in the grass there are small trees growing, and lots of superb fairy wrens that are not in the slightest bit shy!

On site already is one Winnebago, one large tent, an Active camper that slides on to a ute and a small tent with one bike. Some 4WDs inspect the site and then move on, but by 6.30pm, there are a total of 7 tents, two interstate campervans, a flat top truck with a tarpaulin over the back and one large dog!

The site is unpowered, has no shade trees, but there are two picnic benches with seats, and nearby on the beach front are public toilets, a cold open shower and a barbeque rotunda. The Parks ranger posted a Discovery activity poster here.

The nearby surf beaches are fabulous according to our surfing tent neighbours who lived in the area before moving south; and it is also great to walk the long beach and at low tide inspect the many rockpools..this was a Discovery activity listed for the next day.

Apart from a strong allergic reaction to the tall grasses,feeling refreshed by this short break - both the landscape, seascape and the amiable chats with our fellow campers.

Narawntapu National Park

17 December

Narawntapu National Park, formerly the Asbestos Ranges and sometimes known as Bakers Beach is about one hour east of Devonport. Heavy rain, flash floods and hail in Devonport threaten our planned camping. Undeterred, we keep driving. By the time we reach Narawntapu, the rain stops, the sun is shining and wombats, pademelons and Forrester kangaroos are out on the plains. Heartened by signs of three other pairs of campers, we set up the tent... a perfect David Attenborough moment and sans camera, a pademelon family just metres from us caress gently for several minutes as the joey nibbles grass near his Mum's paws. This image will probably remain crystal clear for us as we focus our attention on quietly observing the animals rather than capturing the perfect picture.

No need for alarm clocks here; the wallabies are pounding past the tent at 5.00am. I unzip the flaps to see one investigating the yellow guy ropes. For up close encounters, this spot is magnificent!
                                           
Pied oyster catchers seen out on an early morning walk on Bakers Beach. There is good signage here- keep below the water line to avoid damaging any nests. There is also a short walk to a bird hide beside a lagoon from Springlawn Campsite. Well worth a visit!

Beginning the journey

This documents some of the journey to investigate SAVs (Self-accommodating visitors) in north-west Tasmania who choose to stay in no-cost or minimal fee camping areas.

Are you travelling in a camper van/ fully self contained motor-home / bus / car +tent / bike +tent and staying in free or nominal fee camping zones in the Cradle Coast (north-west Tasmania) between December 2010 - March 2011? 

This area extends from Narawntapu National Park in the east though Sheffield and Cradle Mountain to Queenstown and Strahan in the south-west.

If you would like to share the story of your camping and travels in this beautiful part of the world, please contact me via this blog, fleurintasmania@gmail.com  or at fleur.fallon@utas.edu.au.

The aim of the survey is to improve our understanding of the needs and interests of ‘self-contained’ holiday-makers, especially in relation to the natural values that exist in our region in order to determine how that experience might be enhanced.

All responses will remain confidential and will be aggregated within a final report, which should be available online by June 2011. 

This survey has been commissioned by Cradle Coast Natural Resource Management Committee through funding from the Australian Government’s Caring for our Country initiative and the Cradle Coast Authority.