Arriving mid-afternoon, we register at the Parks and Wildlife Service Office. There are lots of clear laminated posters with warnings about going off-road. An off-road permit is $80.00 per year, and only introduced this year to deter foolhardy behaviour. There are dramatic pictures of what happens to vehicles that try to cross flooded tracks or get caught in treacherous quicksand on the beach.
We prefer to play it safe and opt for $13.00 for an unpowered site in Manuka campground. There are several water points, new, very clean (conventional) toilets, and clearly visible fire hydrant points. Manuka is as huge as a couple of football grounds and well protected, but there are only seven caravans, one slide-on camper and two tents.
It's quite a balmy afternoon, perfect for a beach wedding, but the weather turns cooler with some light showers during the night. Hearing every piece of tent flapping, leaves swishing and wallabies pounding by, the phone alarm at 6.00am is welcome. The air is fresh, the skies promise some sunshine and the beach is waiting (after the obligatory wake-up cuppa). We have the beach to the northern side of the Arthur River to ourselves for more than an hour, and delight in attempts to capture the morning light on 'Australia Rock', and the waves. Foam bubbles soar along the top of the hard sand, and huge driftwood pieces masquerade as ancient dinosaurs. A lone seagull keeps a close watch for an easy breakfast and three cormorants spread their wings on a half- submerged log. How lucky is that - a rainbow breaks through the clouds, beginning and ending in the sea. A perfect beginning to Sunday!
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